I would like to get a very nice trigger job on a SS GP for the single Ruger forum I found the IBOK for the GP on Google (GP IBOK). I received the GP pdf this morning. I found the IBOK so helpful thought I should bump it back up so others could keep seeing it. There is a great resource called the GP IBOK that is a must have the original author had to remove it due to copywrite claims but you can.

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Insert the trigger guard latch part 43 with the flat surface up. You should see a hole drilled to accommodate the plunger spring. Use a forcing cone reamer and cut just enough to see a cone develop.

The dimensions are different of course but essentially they are the same revolver. However, there is a site which offers the inside story of the GP, as written by iblk retired gunsmith who contributes to this forum: Iibok the factory leaves the back surface the flat area around the trigger guard latch hole longer than it should be.

Find all posts by TinmanIA. Chamfering the mouths will not restrict using full power loads nor will it have any other adverse affect. A few thousandths play is normal.

You may have to help ibko a little by wiggling the cylinder. Ibol you examine the firing pin protrusion with the trigger pulled and the hammer pushing the transfer bar forward, you will get a false indication of protrusion. Remove all grease, oil, powder residue, and bullet residue as you go. Installing hammer shims also improves this technique. Hammer reaches the cocking point and is held to the rear by the SA sear.

There are a number of patterns and techniques you can use. You are a great resource for us all. The exceptions are the springs where stainless is inferior.

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It’s all I use on my Stainless Steel weapons. The 5″ is a really great length and if you shoot one you’ll see why the old wheelgunners like Elmer Keith and Skeeter Skelton were partial to 5″ magnums. Do not try to drill any deeper, just get the hole smooth.

Ruger revolvers are great but unfortunately they are much underestimated in Europe. Most of them are fine as is unless they are fairly worn from use. Ibom message in reply?

Lay the disassembly pin in the slot at the bottom of the left side. Grips look OK, but the fit isn’t quite right, I needed to add a shim in order to prevent the grips from rocking. GPs are ibo in two basic configurations. Hold the gun with the muzzle down and insert the front tab of the trigger guard assembly into the frame notch.

The purpose of the hammer is to apply a striking force to the primer when the SA or DA sear is tripped. Push in on the grip panel locator part 18 from the left side until the right grip panel pops out. He is one great guy as well. It must be very smooth.

I would never hesitate to use it as a field gun on hunting trips or for home defense. It was and is very kind of him to allow me to republish it!


I like your 5er, I think that’s the magic size between the 4. Inspect the sides of the hammer for smoothness. Rugers are fantastic revolvers and will last forever. This unique system allows the front sight to be changed in seconds by pushing in the front sight plunger and lifting biok sight out of the channel.

Due to copyright issues the schematic had to be removed.

Slide the spring in place then use the kitchen fork to compress the spring. The gun is already better than I am, but with use and this information I hope it ihok me become even better. The standard front sight is black. Cock the hammer and remove the disassembly pin. The rear sight should click at gl100 of the 8 positions and the rear sight should move up when rotating counter-clockwise or down if rotated clockwise.


Info for new GP owners, including video review. : GP

Clean the bore and forcing cone thoroughly before inspecting. Grab the right flange on the hammer pivot pin and pull it completely out. To remove the hammer strut assembly, cock the hammer then place the disassembly pin part 9 in the hole near the end of the hammer strut part Reassembly of the trigger guard assembly: When the cylinder is closed and latched, the rear of the cylinder is secured by biok center pin rod in the hole of the frame under tension of the ejector spring.

Originally Posted by blackwolf It looks much better and is much easier to read and follow.

New GP – Survivalist Forum

Look at iboi sides of the hammer. It will go on about half way before it contacts the plunger. Once seated, swing the cylinder into the latched position. Very intersting and well written- thanx. Pull the trigger back slightly, apply a drop of oil to the transfer bar lug then insert the transfer bar part 42 into the hole opposite the pawl. There are certainly none as sturdy! Most of my experiences is working with wood, not metal.